Monday, July 11, 2011

Bring on the Rain!


When I arrived in Ghana in September, it was the end of the rainy season.  This meant that it rained occasionally, but there were plenty of hot, sunny days in between. What we would call winter is undeniably Ghana’s dry season.  Between Christmas and the middle of March when the volunteers left, it didn’t rain at all. Not even once. After that, it started to rain, every once in a while.

Since I returned from my week-long visit with my parents, the rainy season has hit with full force.  What does this mean?  Well, it means that it rains a lot (duh).  I would say that for day of sun, there is one day of overcastness and one day of rain.  Because of this, it’s also a lot cooler. The past couple nights, I’ve even had to sleep in socks to keep my feet warm! Granted, I don’t think it ever dropped below 70 degrees or so… but compared to the peak of the dry season, IT’S FREEZING! 

Aside from the actual weather patterns, the rainy season has had a pretty significant impact on my day-to-day life here in Tema. The following results range from trivial to potentially serious, but they’re all differences that I’ve noticed in the past several weeks.

  1. My tan is gone! It’s kind of embarrassing to admit, but I think that after spending a year in Ghana, I might come home a few shades paler than when I left the States. That’s not exactly what you expect from a year in Africa. But with so much rain, and so little sun, excursions and adventures outside just don’t really happen!
  2. Doing wash can’t be taken for granted. Here everyone handwashes their clothes and hangs them to dry on lines outside. In the dry season, or even at the end of the year… there are plenty of dry, sunny days to for this method to work. But now, in the rainy season, often times a sunny morning will lead to a rainy afternoon. Or it will randomly start pouring in the middle of the night. Meaning that any clothes drying outside will get wet. It means that if I need to do laundry, I have to take advantage of every sunny day possible! 
  3. Getting around is more difficult.  Where we stay is peri-urban. There are some gravel roads in the newer parts, but most of the roads and surrounding land is dirt.  It is unpleasant to walk in the rain, yes.  And because most people around here walk (it takes about 15 minutes to walk to catch a bus), when it rains, people just stay at home. But it’s also difficult to walk through mud.   It becomes a game of finding what I call the path of most resistance, or where the ground has remained the sturdiest and is the least saturated with water.
  4. It is much harder to hold regular meetings. This is a corollary of the first point.  Since I returned from my trip, Jamie and I have tried to hold a MAC meeting every single Sunday.  I think we succeeded once (at the very beginning). Every other time, it has rained.  A couple of times it will be clear in the morning, allowing us to get our hopes up, only to begin pouring an hour or two before the meeting is supposed to start. Because of this, our progress has been slower than we would have liked.
  5. School attendance is less regular. This is another corollary.  Rainy mornings mean a couple things. 1) Students and teachers often oversleep.  Because most people don’t use alarm clocks, they have just trained their bodies to wake up on time. Cooler, rainy mornings, often trick people into sleeping later, making them late for school.  2) If it’s raining, it’s difficult for teachers and students to get to school. While there are sometimes snow delays in the US, almost every time it storms, Manye essentially has an unofficial rain delay.
So while the changing of the seasons in Atlanta is little more than bringing out appropriate clothing or outerwear (or maybe bringing out the snow shovels in Hanover), in Ghana I’ve found that the changes actually affect the lives of me and the people around me. But hey, it’s all part of the adventure!

Thursday, July 7, 2011

A Holiday Weekend (with Pictures!)


Many schools in Ghana have midterm breaks – essentially a long weekend that give students and teachers a chance to relax.  Manye very rarely has this, as the headmaster usually wants the kids to be in school as much as possible.  However, last week, we got lucky!  Because July 1st was a holiday (Republic Day) , Mr K also gave the students Thursday off, giving us a four-day weekend (probably similar to what many of you all in the States had for the 4th!)  Thursday was a very lowkey day – I did a little bit of work in the morning on our Grasscutter project, but then spent most of the afternoon/evening reading.

Friday was more fun! One of the teachers arranged a program at a beach in Ada (about 2 hours away).   We were supposed to leave at 8:30 am, at which point it was kind of overcast out. Luckily for us, things were functioning on Ghanaian time and we didn’t end up heading out until almost noon, by which point it was sunny and warm and perfect beach weather.

Once we arrived in Ada, we had to take a small boat to get to the specific beach that we wanted. There were about 15 of us together:  2 teachers, a few of their friends, Jamie, myself, David (Silver ’12, our summer volunteer), and then several others that we didn’t really know. The boat sat really low in the water, and I was pretty entertained seeing how nervous everyone got when the boat would rock a little, as many Ghanaians can’t swim.

some of the crew on the boat ride over

the kind of boat we were on... ours was named "Slow but Sure"

The afternoon we spent at the beach was fun! We ate tofu kebab’s prepared by Courage (his mom owns a tofu kebab company) and “buttah-bread” (aka bread w/ margarine), watched the guys play football on the beach, and even went swimming (first time I’ve gotten in the water when at the beach with Ghanaians).  Swim suits aren’t really something that Ghanaians wear… most guys wear shorts of some kind and wife beaters. Girls also wear shorts and tank tops/t-shirts. I just wore my dress. I ventured out into the “deep end” for a little bit and found myself engaged in several short races with locals.  Embarrassingly, I lost the first one… but I won every single one after that – I even threw in a few strokes of butterfly to see if I could still do it.  The answer? … Somehow. Even though the races were only about 15 yards each, I got tired pretty quickly. Apparently not swimming for more than a year really kills your endurance.

Once it started to cool off, we changed into dry clothes and exchanged in a favorite Ghanaian at-the-beach past time. Photoshoots. For about 45 minutes straight.

too close of Jamie and me on the beach

about half of us 
Afterwards, we took the boat back to the mainland and tro-tro’d it back to Tema, grabbed some rice and stew for dinner, and went to bed.

Saturday, I planned to head to the Akosombo Dam with David plus Jon (Brady ’14) and Kiki (Hocheder ’14), the volunteers over at NAP.  As luck would have it, Ben’s car wouldn’t start. David already wasn’t feeling well, so he decided to stay home.  I went to go and meet Jon and Kiki at the Ashaiman station so we could catch a trotro instead.

The trotro ride was about 2 hours (with one stop in Kpong to change cars).  When we got to the Akosombo station, the three of us decided that we didn’t really want to pay to go into the dam facilities, so we just paid a taxi driver to take us where we could get some pictures of it. Resourceful, eh?

Depending on your source, the Akosombo Dam might be the largest dam in West Africa. Or it blocks the largest man-made lake. Something along those lines. Given that the only other dam I’ve seen is the Hoover Dam (UNLV, Dec ’07) I was pretty impressed.

an unobstructed view of the dam
Kiki and Jon

DWSD ! 

On the way back, we ran into some more transportation issues:  Our trotro overheated.  After an hour of sitting on the side of the highway, Jon, Kiki, and I finally hailed down a car to take us back to Ashaiman/Tema.  One other man from the trotro joined us.  The man who picked us up was really nice and even went out of his way to drop us off closer to home.  I had the chance to chat with his son James, who was in P4 at a local public school. Everytime I asked him a question requiring a positive response, he said, “Of course” in the most adorable voice. Example: “Do you go to school?” “Of course”. After learning he was named after a Pentecost minister, “Do you go to a Pentecost Church” “Of course”.  “Do you like fufuo?” “Of course”. It was too cute.

chillin' on the side of the highway

Sunday was rainy and cold. Well, for Ghana.  It may have been 70 degrees, but Jamie and I were curled up under blankets all day. Another day of reading! Monday, which should have been the real holiday for us, was totally normal.  School resumed, I had work, and we didn’t do anything special to celebrate America’s birthday. Oh well. All in all it was a fun and relaxing weekend.